As Escentric Molecules marks its 20th anniversary, co-founder and perfumer Geza Schoen joins co-founder and creative director Paul White to reflect on two decades of radical innovation in the fragrance industry.
What does marking 20 years of Escentric Molecules mean for the brand?
Geza Schoen: Looking back over the past two decades, I believe we’ve managed to build something truly original – a fragrance brand with a bold, minimalist concept and a loyal following across the globe. What started as an experiment has become a globally recognised name in perfumery, and that’s a testament to the strength of our idea and the trust of our community.
Paul White: It serves as compelling evidence of the impact of our work and the distinction we bring to the marketplace – particularly in how we approach fragrance, gender neutrality, and the foundational principles that inspired the creation of Escentric Molecules. These principles remain relevant, and if anything, are more pertinent now than when we began. Furthermore, it is gratifying to recognise that a substantial number of individuals remain loyal to the brand and cherish our fragrances, with an increasing number of new supporters joining this community. This feedback serves as a resounding endorsement from those who appreciate Escentric Molecules.
How has Molecule 01 shifted the landscape of the fragrance industry over the years?
GS: Molecule 01 played a key role in shifting the narrative around what a fragrance can be. Until then, the focus was largely on naturals – those were the ingredients that got all the attention in scent descriptions. But we made a single aroma-molecule, Iso E Super, the star. Molecule 01 made aroma-chemicals sexy. It disrupted the status quo and opened the door to a whole new way of thinking about scent.
PW: Molecule 01 revolutionised modern perfumery when it was launched. It established a new trajectory and conveyed a powerful message that differentiation is valuable; the industry need not adhere to the same conventions. Not everyone must conform to the prevailing trends and fashions that govern most offerings in the marketplace. Instead, we ought to continually consider anti-trends and forge our own paths. Molecule 01 truly embodies this philosophy.
What is the core philosophy of the brand, and how has it evolved over the past two decades?
GS: Escentric Molecules is about simplicity and sophistication. That philosophy has remained over the years. From the original Molecule and Escentric pairs to the evolution of our M+ series which continues to grow – building on Molecule 01 with a single, carefully chosen ingredient. Everything we do is grounded in minimalism. We never launched new scents for the sake of it and that has remained the case. A release only makes sense if it smells better than what’s already out there, if it truly adds something new and necessary to the fragrance landscape.
PW: To be unique, to resist the allure of trends, to introduce a fragrance or product line only when we are inspired by a compelling idea, and to consistently strive to remain authentic to our vision.
How might Escentric Molecules have been different if it hadn’t remained independent? Would its philosophy have shifted?
PW: Absolutely, at its core, independence is paramount. Our lack of external shareholders – beyond the founders – allows us to operate without outside influence. If this were not the case, it would inevitably affect our approach. We do not engage in market testing; rather, we act on our conviction and belief in our ideas. While I acknowledge that we are not the only company operating in this manner, as there are others with similar philosophies, the industry itself is heavily driven by fragrance trends, which have never been of significant interest to us. I cannot recall another company undertaking a project akin to M+. It stands out as one of the most fascinating endeavours for me and ranks among my personal favourites.
Could you share some of the most iconic moments and milestones from the brand’s 20-year journey?
GS: Meeting Paul White was the initial ignition. It felt like the spark that ignited the project. It was a rare meeting of two disciplines that don’t often cross paths. One iconic moment was filling and crimping the first 10,000 bottles by hand in a London garage – my hands were numb the next morning! Another was hearing stories of people being chased down the street by strangers asking, “What are you wearing?” That was when we realized we had launched something truly different. And on a scientific level, discovering that Iso E Super is the only known aroma-molecule to activate a human pheromone receptor was extraordinary. Huge thanks to Professor Hanns Hatt for that research.
PW: The initial milestone was achieving sales at Harvey Nichols. The subsequent milestone involved selling out our entire product range and establishing the longest waiting list in the store's history, leading to the realisation that we were, in fact, operating a viable business. Another significant milestone was the recognition that Escentric Molecules, as a binary pair, could extend beyond EM01, allowing us to develop EM02, EM03, and so forth.
Another significant milestone was discovering that Molecule 01 was the single best-selling item in Liberty’s history. Another key milestone is the establishment of our first store in Berlin, which we are currently in the process of developing. We frequently hear remarkable stories from individuals who appreciate our fragrances, which is truly extraordinary. I believe that this continual connection with our customers represents a wonderful milestone, one that is ever-evolving.
What first inspired you to create Escentric Molecules?
GS: At the time, the fragrance world felt too polished, too predictable. It needed more punk – and more Bauhaus, in the sense of radical clarity and function. The overwhelming feedback I received when people smelled Iso E Super on its own made it clear: This molecule had something magical. The idea of wearing a single aroma-chemical as a fragrance was almost unthinkable back then. Traditionally, ingredients had to be blended. Escentric Molecules challenged that paradigm. The Escentric fragrances, on the other hand, are my homage to each featured molecule – they’re built around it, making the molecule the protagonist. It was a radical, minimalist concept that simply had to happen.
PW: The concept to launch Escentric Molecules originated with Geza. I became involved because I possessed the understanding and background to truly appreciate the extraordinary nature of such an innovative idea, particularly the esoteric qualities of Molecule 01. Geza's keen olfactory sense, combined with my experience in music and collaboration with techno artists and labels, created a seamless synergy between us. We soon realised that we shared similar perspectives on various matters. Ultimately, it was Geza’s vision; he had been developing this concept for a number of years before we met.
Looking back, what have been the brand’s boldest decisions? Which moments are you most proud of?
GS: I think the boldest decision was the concept itself. To centre an entire brand around single aroma-molecules was a major risk. But it worked, and it resonated – and I’m incredibly proud of the team we’ve built along the way.
PW: Our most important decision in the early days was to continue developing the Molecule and Escentric fragrances. After the success of EM01, it would have been all too tempting to adopt a more commercial approach, pivoting towards the creation of widely appealing fragrances instead of remaining steadfast in our commitment to the concept of Molecule. We concentrated on celebrating molecules by creating the Escentric counterparts and championing their uniqueness. For the first 10 to 15 years, this was our sole focus. It also reflects our intrinsic nature; we tend to look inward rather than outward, prioritising a deeper understanding of who we are and what we aspire to achieve.
Paul, what distinguishes your approach to packaging design within the fragrance world?
PW: There exists a significant distinction in my approach to fragrance packaging, which was centred on authentically representing the essence of the fragrance within, rather than solely adopting a brand-centric perspective. My intention was to create packaging that uniquely embodied each fragrance while maintaining a cohesive brand DNA across the entire collection. A crucial aspect of the packaging was its ability to convey our core values, our objectives, and the rationale behind our endeavours. The manner in which we package our fragrances draws inspiration from a discipline more akin to music. In the nascent days of independent music packaging, the creation of an album cover was crucial; it needed to captivate attention on the shelves of record stores and effectively sell the product, as there was seldom a marketing campaign to support it. The album itself functioned as a marketing initiative. Similarly, when we launched Escentric Molecules, we faced a parallel challenge: we lacked a marketing budget and the resources to promote the product beyond its presence on retail shelves. Therefore, it was only logical to adopt a packaging approach reminiscent of our experiences in independent music. Each fragrance packaging would possess its own distinctive qualities, designed to attract and resonate with potential buyers.
What do you think sets Geza’s approach to perfumery apart?
PW: Geza’s approach is iterative, as with many others, following his own creative vision and methods. Where he probably differs from others is in asking himself the questions: “What is in this fragrance that is unnecessary? What happens if this goes? How simple and pure to the idea can I make this?” The process is iterative and also reductivist, resulting in each fragrance reflecting his personal artistry and passion, creating fragrances that are truly one-of-a-kind.
