02. Aroma-molecule: Ambroxan
Escentric Molecules 02 celebrates the fresh and sensual resonance of nature-identical Ambroxan in two different fragrances.
Escentric 02 – a formula
Molecule 02 – a molecule
Ambroxan has a subtle sensual quality with a radiant, long-lasting drydown.
It is a crystal with a chemical structure identical to the ambrox derived from ambergris. For centuries ambergris was perhaps the most prized ingredient in perfumery. It is a somewhat mysterious substance expelled by the cachalot or sperm whale which only attains its fine scent after a long maturation floating in the ocean. Ambergris is rarely found these days, and the ‘amber’ in a modern fragrance will be a lab-created equivalent of some of the aroma-molecules that make up its scent. By far the finest of these is the nature-identical molecule, Ambroxan.
Ambergris was always valued for its refinement as well as its sensuality. This quality persists in Ambroxan. “It has a fresh almost mineral quality,” says perfumer, Geza Schoen, “that lingers into the drydown.”
Ambroxan was isolated from plant sources in 1950.
Escentric 02 contains 13.5% Ambroxan* in a formula designed to amplify its mineral note with hedione (green jasmine bud), a ‘gin and tonic’ accord, “and a hint of the Austrian lemonade called almdudler”. Schoen describes the final effect as ‘super-longlasting freshness into the drydown, together with a subtle sensuality.’
*13.5% is the maximum percentage of Ambroxan that can be dissolved in a fragrance compound. Any more, and the Ambroxan begins to crystallize out of the solution.
Molecule 02 consists of the molecule Ambroxan pure and singular.